Videoing and Photography.

Producing clear video footage of distant objects is not easy and this is severely complicated by the very nature of unidentified flying objects.

Rule Number One! USE A TRIPOD! We get so many photographs and video footage to analyse that is out of focus or badly exposed due to camera shake that we almost get fed up of repeating this! Use a Tripod, switch off the Autofocus and bracket your exposures! There we said it again! If you haven't got a tripod, get a bean bag or a sandbag that you can keep in the boot of your car. Never be without your camera! Then when the unimaginable happens and you actually see one of these things, you can slap the beanbag on the roof of your car, prop the camera on it and start shooting. Remember, when shooting at night a bright subject will be overexposed so you have to stop the lens aperture down and when shooting a daylight subject in the sky it will probably be underexposed so you have to open up one or two F stops.

Heat, atmospheric and gravitational distortion will frequently affect the quality of the pictures and in 99% of all cases you will be photographing objects at extreme range. If you are at all serious about capturing footage that will conclusively prove the existence of these objects, then you should consider the use of a camera tripod essential as you will frequently be working at the zoom limits of your camera.

Zoom In and Out whilst filming the object. Zoom steadily using the motorized zoom if possible. This will aid analysts in  verifying the validity of your footage since objects seen on video will move in proportion to their size and the distance travelled.

Include foreground and farground objects in the footage if you can, ideally panning directly from the ufo to other non-anomalous objects. This panning should be carried out without zooming if possible and certainly in a continuous shot without using the pause button on your video camera.

Using Autofocus pan to foreground and farground objects as well as the UFO. There are technical reasons for doing this but it helps analysis.

Include off-tripod shots with your camera, moving yourself and filming the object at the same time. Take care where you are going as you will be excited and extremely distracted.

Whilst moving and filming see if you can obscure the UFO behind a foreground object, such as a tree or a house. If the UFO is close then moving and filming the UFO's change of perspective and aspect, against a farground object such as a plane or a hill, will add validity to your footage. It is best to only partially obscure the UFO if you can do it.

Film people things and places if you have a time and date stamp option, use it. Anything that can verify when the footage was taken will help to correlate it to radar traces, other peoples sightings etc...

If you have an infra-red option remember to use that too.

If you have a still camera use that too. A still camera's zoom lens will give much higher definition than a video camera's.

Still Cameras.

If you are shooting with a still camera, when you have finished. Stop. Whatever you do, don't take your film out of the camera - Don't even rewind it. Take a shot of your wristwatch or a clock. Under no circumstances take your film to a chemists or a cheap photo processing shop. Call us first, we can advise you what to do. Don't under any circumstances take the film to the newspapers or TV, it may be the last you will see of it, especially if the footage is exceptional.

Bracket your exposures. Shooting at different apertures and speeds.

Stereo Cameras if you have one, use it. 3D Images are extremely hard to fake and will give added credence to your sighting.

Digital Cameras.

Forget them. No one will believe you. The images are far too easy to fake. If you only have a digital camera you can take a stereo photo of the object easily by shooting the left image first and then moving the camera 5cm to the right, re-center the object and making sure that you have kept the camera in the same horizontal plane, shoot a second photo, move a further 5cm to the right and shoot a third photo. Send the digital images to us and we can process them into a stereo photograph for you. Stereo glasses to view the images can be obtained from MEDIA 55 at www.media55.co.uk .

General.

Get the camera hidden fast, at your home is not a good idea. Tell no one where it is. Remember the man who filmed the crash retrieval on Cannock Chase. He was arrested by the Police and when he got home they had already been there and removed his camera. He never saw his film again.

As soon as you get to a place of safety, get a pen and some notepaper and making a note of the time and the date, write down in detail, what you saw, what film you used and the type and age of the camera. Any technical details you can get down will help, together with names addresses and phone numbers of anyone else who was present. Read our Sightings Form to get an idea of the type of information that will help.

Physical Evidence.

Obviously you should take extreme care when approaching the site of a recent landing or any physical traces of the landing. There is a real and present danger from residual radiation and gravitational disturbances that we do not fully understand yet. Only you can be a judge of whether or not you are prepared to approach such a site.  Residual radiation can damage you, the environment and ruin your film. Remember most people experience extreme fear at close encounters and the reaction on meeting entities is nearly always one of terror. You cannot know how you will react and your safety is of paramount importance in these situations. Never, never approach these sites alone or without a full understanding of the dangers involved.

Our advice is STAY AWAY, these things are real and very very dangerous.